Events
From ULITAWiki
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| Friday 19, March 2010 | |
Current Exhibition
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| 'A History of the World: The Qing Dragon Robe' |
| Highlighting an object from our Collection January to May 2010 |
| ULITA is pleased to be involved with this BBC and British Museum project.
This highly embroidered silk dragon robe was made according to the imperial clothing regulations of the Qing dynasty, where civilian and military officials were required to wear cloth rank badges to denote their social class. This robe is part of a collection of Chinese textiles given to the University of Leeds in the 1930s by Professor Aldred Farrer Barker, the then recently retired Professor of Textile Industries. Barker’s profession allowed him to travel widely, being invited to report on textiles production and manufacture in Australia, Peru, Canada, Japan and China, where he advised on the development of textiles education in Shanghai. He was also a supporter of the Clothworkers' Museum which was created in the department in the 1890s. We hope to exhibit Barker's publications and papers in March. View our object on the BBC Website Further objects chosen by museums in Leeds. View further items from the Qing Collection. Related ULITA publications: Dragons, Unicorns and Phoenixes - Origin and Continuity of Technique and Motif |
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| 'The Yarns of a Travelling Professor' |
| The publications and papers of A F Barker, textiles educator, researcher and collector From 2nd March to 14th May 2010 |
| Calling himself a ‘typical product of the Clothworkers’ Department of the University of Leeds’, Professor Aldred F Barker rose through the ranks to become its third Chair of the Department of Textile Industries, from 1914 to 1933.
He published many texts and reports, predominantly on the international wool industry, drawing on visits to Europe, the Americas, South Africa, India and the Far East. Barker was a longstanding supporter of the Clothworkers' Museum(now ULITA). On retiring from the University, Professor Barker took a position at Chiao-tung University, Shanghai. The Qing Collection of 19th and 20th Century Chinese textiles was given by Barker and his son to the University of Leeds in the late 1930s. These textiles are amongst the most popular collections in ULITA. Through his papers, photographs and publications, this exhibition presents Barker's work at the University of Leeds and Bradford College, his wide ranging interests, and his extensive travels and research. Barker Publications and Manuscripts in Leeds University Library
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| 'Natural Fibres: A World Heritage' |
| A celebration of the International Year of Natural Fibres EXTENTED EXHIBITION:From 6th October 2009 to 14 May 2010 |
| Natural fibres include those fibres of plant or animal origin, which can be spun into yarn, thread or rope. Woven, knitted, matted or bonded, they form fabrics that are essential to society. To celebrate the International Year of Natural Fibres and in association with the recent 2009 Ars Textrina International Textiles Conference, ULITA is highlighting the use of natural fibres in textiles from across the globe. Selections from ULITA’s constituent collections include silks from Qing Dynasty China, shawls of cashmere, Mediterranean embroideries of linen and silk, Javanese batik cottons, an embroidered ship cloth from Sumatra, ikats from Indonesia, crafted items from New Zealand, West Africa, Malaysia and Turkey, and various twentieth century textiles.
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Forthcoming Exhibition
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| 'My Mill - My Heritage' |
| an exhibition of the works of local schools and community groups From June to July 2010 (dates to follow shortly) |
| Local schools and community groups will produce video journals and wall hanging depicting textiles mills, and their machinery, using the craft of collaging and stitching, and supplemented by other handcraft techniques. This Heritage Lottery funded project and exhibition is running in partnership with the South Leeds City Learning Centre. Further details to be announced shortly. |
Previous Exhibitions
75 Years of Stitching in Yorkshire
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| '75 Years of Stitching in Yorkshire' |
| Celebrating the establishment of the Embroiderers’ Guild Yorkshire Branch at Leeds 1934-2009 From 6 October 2009 to 26th February 2010 |
| The Embroiderers’ Guild was formed in London in 1906 and members travelled from all over the country to the meetings. In 1934, a group of ladies established the Yorkshire Branch, only the second branch outside London and now the longest serving branch, celebrating its 75th Anniversary in 2009. The first president of the Embroiderers’ Guild was Louisa Pesel, a teacher and expert in embroidery who had travelled worldwide collecting samples of embroidery. Her life’s collection and notebooks are held at ULITA. This exhibition presents samples from the Branch archive and work of present members, including the results of a competition this year based on the theme of Natural Fibres to complement the current exhibition at ULITA. |
Tibor Reich: a Life of Colour and Weave
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| 'Tibor Reich: a Life of Colour and Weave' |
| an exhibition of the works of the eminent 20th Century textile designer From 31st March to 26th June 2009 |
| This exhibition presents a selection of the works of the 20th Century textile designer Tibor Reich. After graduating from the University of Leeds in the early 1940s, he set up Tibor Ltd, which was to become one of the most innovative textile companies of the post war period. Clients included Concorde, Ercol, QE2, Lotus Cars, Coventry Cathedral and the Shakespeare Centre in Stratford- upon- Avon.
His most famous designs include “Age of Kings”, “Atournament”, “A History of Shapes” and “Flamingo” which are now highly regarded among textile collectors and connoisseurs. The exhibition is selected from a collection on long term loan to ULITA from the Reich family. A monograph is available to purchase from ULITA, or to download from our pages. Also see Collection details |
Bali and the Islands of Nusa Tenggara
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| 'Bali and the islands of the southeast' |
| an exhibition of Indonesian textiles from Bali and Nusa Tenggara 7th October 2008 to 27th February 2009 |
| The region of Nusa Tenggara is a microcosm of the great diversity of Indonesia. Traditional textile production of staggering variety is found throughout this region.
This exhibition aims to reveal some of the diversity and richness of the textiles of this region, based around a number of themes, including functions, ritual, design, production techniques, culture, continuity, decline and innovation. The exhibition is based on the collection of Hywel Coleman OBE, Honorary Senior Research Fellow in the School of Education, University of Leeds. He is a consultant to the Ministry of National Education, Indonesia, and has been collecting Indonesian textiles since 1973. A monograph is available to purchase from ULITA, or to download from our pages. Also see Ikats of Sawu Island Resource
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World Textiles and Yorkshire: Past and Future
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| 'World Textiles and Yorkshire: Past and Future' |
| Ulita and South Leeds City Learning Centre 11th June- 18th July 2008 |
| “World Textiles and Yorkshire: Past and Future” is an eighteen-month project supported by the Heritage Lottery Fund, undertaken by the University of Leeds International Textiles Archive (ULITA), and their associated partner South Leeds City Learning Centre of Education Leeds.The aim of the project is to encourage school children and adults, of all ages and backgrounds to increase their knowledge of textiles. With the emphasis on design and “making”, and with guidance from specialist tutors, one hundred and seventy students researched, designed, and manufactured items. Selections of these are presented in this exhibition, with each display cabinet highlighting the various ways in which the project was interpreted by different groups. Also see Project Details. |
Form, Shape and Space
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| 'Form, Shape and Space' |
| An Exhibition of Tilings and Polyhedra by Briony Thomas October 10th, 2007 – May 16th, 2008 |
| ‘Form, Shape and Space – An Exhibition of Tilings and Polyhedra’ is the outcome of research undertaken in the School of Design at the University of Leeds. The project is of great potential significance to the decorative arts and design, and explores a range of geometric concepts of importance to both two- and three-dimensional design. Laser cutting, routing and rapid prototyping equipment have been used in the production of exhibits in etched and constructed form in two- and three-dimensions using resistant materials. The project is concerned with concepts of relevance to pattern, geometric structure, form, shape and proportion, and is truly interdisciplinary in nature. Throughout the twentieth century the University of Leeds played a pivotal role in the analysis and interpretation of patterns – the three-dimensional patterns that are the basis of crystal structures and the two-dimensional patterns that are the basis of tessellations. The Leeds tradition has continued, most recently with the development of theoretical concepts relating to the application of pattern to three-dimensional forms – an attractive mathematical problem with great artistic potential. Patterns and proportional relationships create a visual language expressing order and generating appealing, fascinating compositions. The application of regularly repeating patterns to the surface of mathematical solids is potentially of considerable value to the design of highly functional and aesthetically novel constructions offering great innovative potential in design, the decorative arts and architecture. ‘Form, Shape and Space’ is the showcase for a substantial collection of tilings and three-dimensional structures created through the exploitation and development of the understanding of geometric concepts.
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Fashion Synergy
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| 'Fashion Synergy' |
| Vintage Clothing Remodelled Using 'High Technology' Fabrics Friday 11th May - Friday 22nd June, 2007 |
| This exhibition presents the results of a project which involved the use of nonwoven fabrics in the production of a range of fashion garments. Although such fabrics have not in the past been favoured for extensive use in outerwear fashion manufacture, recent advances in textile engineering have yielded nonwoven fabrics with favourable draping properties, soft handle, stretch and recovery, all of which are considered essential in everyday garment use. An important basis for this work is the acceptance that modern nonwoven fabrics are truly engineered materials with technical performance and aesthetic characteristics that are routinely “tuned” to meet specific requirements. Unique performance and cost combinations can be achieved when working directly with fabric producers. Many of the exhibits have been created by making close reference to the stylistic characteristics of items from the School of Design's Fashion Archive, which houses an extensive range of 20th century fashions. Under the supervision of Mr David Backhouse and Ms. Lynne Webster, teams of students selected items from the School of Design’s Fashion Archive. A careful record was made of important stylistic and technical features including: pattern, shape, fit, armholes, stitching, seam details, dart placement and fastenings, drape, and added decorative features such as embroidery. The objective was not simply to replicate the archive garment, but instead to use this as an inspirational source from which to develop a collection of garments which were visually appealing in their own right and also exploited the innovative practical properties resultant from recent advances in textile engineering. A delightful, visually stimulating, exhibition includes both newly-created items as well as a selection of fashions designed by notable twentieth century designers. A catalogue is available. |
Hand-crafted Rugs
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| 'Hand-Crafted Rugs' |
| The Art of Contemporary Rug Making November 2006 to March 2007 |
| Pieces made by the West Riding Ruggers - established in 1988. An exhibition presented at ULITA exploring techniques including knitting, weaving, printing and materials manipulation. Pieces made by the West Riding Ruggers - established in 1988 - include works by groups and by individuals. They ran a series of workshops on rugmaking in ULITA. |
Tactile Textiles
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| 'Tactile Textiles' |
| Fashion Concepts in Mixed Media Textile Design April - May 2006 |
| Textiles created from wool, yarn, wood and even plastic were the subject of this exhibition at ULITA. The exhibits, which were the work of second year BA students in Textile Design at the School of Design, explored techniques including knitting, weaving, form the latest exhibition at ULITA. The exhibition in St Wilfred’s Chapel, the result of work by second year BA students in textile design, explores techniques including knitting, weaving, printing and materials manipulation. |
Mediterranean, Turkish and Aegean Embroideries
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| 'Mediterranean, Turkish and Aegean Embroideries' |
| From Athens to Winchester – The Life and Work of Louisa Frances Pesel April 2005 to October 2006 |
| This exhibition presented items selected from the Louisa Pesel Collection, one of the Archive’s most important constituent collections. Louisa Frances Pesel was born in Bradford in 1870 and died in Winchester in 1947. During her life time she had amassed a large embroidery collection (comprised of samples from various sources, mainly from Turkey and Greece, as well as notebooks, photographs and lantern slides). This collection, along with various other items (mainly books on art and gardening) was bequeathed to the University of Leeds. She was elected first president of the Embroiderers’ Guild (which celebrates its centenary in 2006). Miss Pesel studied drawing and design under Lewis Foreman Day, a contemporary and close acquaintance of William Morris. Following Day’s recommendation, she was appointed as designer to the Royal Hellenic School of Needlework and Laces in Athens in 1903, and acted as Director of the school until 1907. On her return to England, she became an inspector of art and needlework with the Board of Education, and gave lectures and talks to numerous societies and associations. Between 1914 and 1918, she was fundraising to assist the war effort and organised a handicraft club for shell-shocked soldiers. In 1922 she moved to Weymouth, where she started classes in embroidery for the wives of the unemployed. In 1934 she moved to Winchester, and in 1938 she was appointed as “Mistress of Broderers of Winchester Cathedral”. From 1940 to 1945, she was involved in sending embroidery kits to Prisoner of War Camps in Germany, and taught embroidery to evacuated school girls. During the course of her active life she published a range of articles and papers concerning both Eastern and Western embroidery. In 1946 she met the Librarian of the University of Leeds and gave details of the bequest. The bequeathed collection has become known as the Pesel Collection, one of the constituent collections of the University of Leeds International Textiles Archive (ULITA). The Pesel Collection at Leeds is world renowned and consists of quantities of Louisa Pesel’s own embroidery work, as well as a range of notebooks, several boxes of lantern slides, some of Miss Pesel’s own publications, and 116 historic pieces collected by her. The majority of this latter component of the collection is of Turkish and Greek island origin (33 and 30 pieces respectively); 5 pieces are of Moroccan or Algerian origin; 7 pieces are from Turkistan, India or Pakistan; 21 pieces are from Persia, Syria or other regions; 6 pieces are of Chinese origin; 14 pieces are of Western European origin. This exhibition presented a representative selection from this important Collection, including some of Miss Pesel’s own embroidered items. |
Decorative Woven Textiles
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| 'Decorative Woven Textiles' |
| Patterns of Culture – Decorative Weaving Techniques November 2005 to March 2006 |
| An exhibition presented at ULITA (Curated by ULITA staff, including Mr J. A. Smith and Mrs M. Chalmers, as well as Ms B. Thomas, under the direction of Professor M. A. Hann). To accompany the Exhibition a monograph Decorative Weaving Techniques |
Resist Dyed and Printed Textiles
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| 'Resist Dyed and Printed Textiles' |
| Patterns of Culture – Techniques of Decoration and Coloration February 2005 to September 2005 |
This exhibition was concerned with certain types of decoration on textiles, produced by the application of dyes in association with other materials. This includes direct printing, using blocks or stencils, and the various resist-dyeing techniques. Direct printing involves the application of colour directly on to the fabric surface, in one process, and does not involve secondary or intermediate processes before the development of the coloured design. The term “resist dyeing” refers to a wide range of techniques used to decorate textiles by selectively dyeing areas on a yarn of fabric’s surface. This selective dyeing is facilitated by folding or knotting, the use of stencils or shields, wrapping thread (or similar material) round folded fabric or hanks of yarn, stitching thread into the fabric and drawing it tight, or applying resist materials such as wax, or paste to the fabric’s surface. Three general categories can be identified:
Variants are found worldwide and have been used to decorate fabrics throughout much of recorded textile history. Many relevant examples are held in ULITA. |
Qing Dynasty Textiles
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| 'Qing Dynasty Textiles' |
| Dragons, Unicorns and Phoenixes – Origin and Continuity of Technique and Motif May to December 2004 |
| Over the past twenty years, traditional Chinese embroidered and woven textiles have gained increased attention from scholars and researchers, and have become an important focus among art and craft collectors worldwide. The collection of Chinese textiles held by the University of Leeds International Textiles Archive (ULITA) was assembled several decades before this relatively recent wave of popularity. Professor Aldred Barker, the then recently retired Professor of Textile Industries, travelled to Shanghai in the 1930s to advise on the establishment of an educational institution dedicated to the study of textiles. It appears that the bulk of ULITA’s Chinese collection (two hundred items in total) was acquired by Barker at that time. As a result, this important constituent collection of ULITA is referred to as the “Barker Collection of Chinese Textiles”. Considering the fashionable popularity of Chinese textiles in recent years the opening of ULITA in new premises in May 2004 was an opportune setting to display items from this truly magnificent collection. (Curated by ULITA staff, including Mr P. Lawson, Ms M. Scargall and Mr J. A. Smith, under the direction of Professor M. A. Hann). A monograph Dragons, Unicorns And Phoenixes was produced to mark this exhibition which was the first held in St. Wilfred's Chapel. |
